Don’t you think cosmetics would make you look better?” I replied, “I think they would make me look different.” “Different how,” she persisted, “different good or different bad?” I smiled. Scrutinizing my face, she said, “You know, a little blusher, a little eye shadow, they make you look and feel good. A vital woman in her sixties who had sold cosmetics for a Los Angeles wholesale house, she was intrigued by my project, although perplexed that a scholar would find in beauty products a subject of any significance. Frontispiece: H elena R ubenstein, around 1920 FOR P E T E R with gratitude and love Contents P refa ce ix In tro d u c tio n 3 1 Masks and Faces 9 2 Women Who P a in ted 37 3 B e a u ty C ultu re a n d W om en’s C om m erce 61 4 The R ise o f the Mass M a rk e t 97 5 P ro m o tin g the M ade-U p W om an 134 6 E v e ry d a y C osm etic P ractices 167 7 Shades o f D ifference 203 8 Id e n tity a n d the M a rk et 238 N otes 271 Illu str a tio n A ckn o w led g m en ts 31 7 In d e x 319 Preface ome years ago, I sat in my aunt’s kitchen, explaining to her my plan to spend the day at the Max Factor Museum of Beauty in Hollywood, not as a tourist, but as a researcher. In no way should the reader attempt to create, mix, apply, or ingest any o f the recipes.
6 '3 '0 9 7 3 - dc21 97-42706 CIP d e s i g n e d by kat e n i c h o l s Disclaimer: Cosmetics recipes as described herein are given fo r historical and reference purposes only, and m ay cause skin, eye, and other injuries. Includes bibliographical references and index. H ope in a ja r : the m aking of A m erica’s beauty culture / Kathy Peiss. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ISBN 978-0-8122-2167-1 The Library of Congress has catalogued the hardcover edition of this book as follows: Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication D ata Peiss, Kathy Lee. P rinted in the U nited States of A m erica on acid-free paper. The Making of America's Beauty Culture K athy P eiss HOPE in a JAR HOPE IN A JAR Culture KATHY PEISS PENN U niversity o f P en n sy lv a n ia Press P h ila d e lp h ia Copyright © 1998 by Kathy Peiss First U niversity of P ennsylvania Press edition 2011.
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